基于生织匹染工艺的宋锦产品设计
来源:用户上传
作者:温润 王桂芳 吴思洋 沈华
摘 要：针对宋锦产品生产成本高、受众面小的问题，提出了利用蚕丝与涤纶染色差异，将生织匹染工艺用于宋锦产品创新。通过对知名品牌宋锦产品的调研，得出地、花两色灰度比值区间，继而设计染色实验获得染色温度、保温时间、染料用量3因素对蚕丝和涤纶上色的影响，并通过正交实验优化染色工艺，获得与调研相匹配的染色方案，使宋锦实现双色或多色效果。研究表明：宋锦地色、花色灰度的常规比值范围在0.4～0.6;酸性环境下高温更利于蚕丝染色，且染料用量在1%～3% （o.w.f）间上染变化明显;蚕丝、涤纶染色差异与灰度比值符合调研结果，可通过生织匹染或与色织结合开发出年轻化、低成本及多样化的宋锦产品。
关键词：宋锦;生织匹染;涤纶;灰度值;产品设计
中图分类号：TS1;TS106.84
文献标志码：A
文章编号：1009-265X（2022）02-0141-07
收稿日期：20201222 网络出版日期：20210629
基金项目：上海市哲学社会科学规划课题（2020BWY032）
作者简介：温润（1982-），男，安徽合肥人，博士研究生，主要从事纺织品设计方面的研究。
通信作者：沈华（1988-），E-mail：shenhua@dhu.edu.cn
Design of Song brocade products based on the raw fabric piece dyeing process
WEN Run1， WANG Guifang1， WU Siyang2， SHEN Hua1
（1.College of Textiles， Donghua University， Shanghai 201600， China;
2.Shanghai Museum， Shanghai 200003， China）
Abstract： In order to solve the problems of Song brocade products， that is， high production cost and small target audience， this paper puts forward the innovation and development of Song brocade products via raw fabric piece dyeing process by utilizing the dyeing difference between silk and polyester. Through an investigation of famous Song brocade products， the gray ratio range between two colors， that is， background color and floral color is obtained， and then a dyeing experiment is designed to acquire the effect of three factors， on dyeing temperature， holding time and dye dosage on the coloring of silk and polyester. The dyeing process is optimized through an orthogonal experiment， and a dyeing scheme matching the survey is obtained， so that Song brocades can achieve a bi-color or multi-color effect. The results show that the conventional gray ratio range of background color to floral color of Song brocade is 0.4～0.6. In an acidic environment， high temperature is more beneficial to silk dyeing， and the change of dyeing is distinct when the dye dosage is between 1% and 3% （o.w.f）. The dyeing difference and gray ratio of silk and polyester are in line with the survey results. Young， low-cost and diversified Song brocade products can be developed through raw fabric piece dyeing or yarn dyed weaving.
Key words： Song brocade; raw fabric piece dyeing; polyester; gray value; product design
宋\历史悠久，有着柔软挺括的质地和素雅高贵的风格，向来备受人们的青睐[1]。作为三大名锦之一，宋锦经过中国传统文化的洗礼，形成了自己的品格与特色[2]。宋锦在原有基础上得到了发展，于图案中添加现代元素的同时，也增加了产品的功能性，例如在面料硬挺度、耐磨性[3]以及防盗性[4]等方面。宋锦对现代人们生活的影响力不断扩大，同时也暴露出一些问题，受众上缺少中青年人群认可，价格上相对其他真丝产品偏高，设计上花色传统且品类较为单一。
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