烟花扬州

来源:用户上传      作者: 窦玉生

　　想必,没有一个中国人不知道扬州。
　　但凡一个读过书的中国人,都学习过中国散文大家朱自清的《荷塘月色》。那近乎被“写绝”了的月色,也是扬州的景致。“天下三分明月夜,二分无奈是扬州”。从古到今,扬州的月色都是很美的。幼时的朱自清,就是沐着扬州如水的月光长大的。
　　但凡一个读过书的中国人,也肯定学习过“烟花三月下扬州”的名句。这是中国大诗人李白,远在武昌黄鹤楼头送友人孟浩然坐船时,对烟花三月的扬州念念不忘而深情写下的。
　　这座有着2500多年历史的古城太有文化。在唐宋,几乎每个著名的诗人都到过扬州。以《春江花月夜》“孤篇压倒全唐”的作者张若虚,就是扬州人;写下“二十四桥明月夜,玉人何处教吹箫”的杜牧,曾在扬州呆过三年;而写下千古咏月名词《水调歌头・明月几时有》的苏轼,则在扬州当过知州;白居易、欧阳修、秦观等名士才子也都曾在扬州生活过。
　　此外,以“扬州八怪”为代表的扬州画派和扬州学派更是在中国文化领域独树一帜;扬州戏曲、扬州评话、玉雕漆器、扬派盆景、雕版印刷、淮扬菜系等也独具特色,源远流长。
　　南北朝时有句诗叫做“腰缠十万贯,骑鹤下扬州”,一向都被后人用来形容扬州这个东南胜地、销金窝子。余秋雨的《山居笔记》写到扬州时,也用此诗句来形容。那时的扬州相当于中国今天的一个省,治所在建康(今南京)。
　　扬州的真正崛起,是在隋炀帝开凿了大运河、扬州成为南北水运枢纽之后。相传,当时扬州琼花观里长着一株绝美无比的花,美如白玉,人们唤它琼花。“维扬一株花,四海无同类”。隋炀帝为了看这天下独一无二的琼花,曾三下扬州。
　　如今,琼花观仍在。在扬州市区文昌中路(原琼花路)的北侧,一座古色古香、美轮美奂的道观矗立在人们面前,就是名声远播的千年古道场琼花观。出了琼花观,从小路往瘦西湖方向穿去,过了护城河,史公祠就到了。扬州历史上最惨烈的日子也展现在了眼前。明朝明臣史可法在扬州抗击清兵,城破身死,清兵在此屠城十日,杀戮了几十万人,这就是扬州史上永远铭刻的“扬州十日”。
　　因此,扬州是一座被诗泡着的城市,更是一座被血泡过的城市。然而它却有着惊人的复原能力。经历了魏晋南北朝的战乱,迎来了隋唐的鼎盛;在南宋数度成为战场,但只要局势稍有和缓,便又迅速得到恢复发展;“扬州十日”使扬州成了一座空城,可到了康乾年间它又拥有了50万人口,而当时世界上人口达到50万的城市只有10座。
　　史公祠往前不远就是天宁寺。扬州不但吸引着无数的文人墨客,也迷醉着皇帝,康熙五次到扬州都住在天宁寺中,曹雪芹的祖父曹寅就在寺前御码头接驾四次。乾隆六下江南,五次到扬州也是在这上的岸。
　　扬州有水。江、河、湖贯穿着这个城市,世界上最长的人工运河――京杭大运河就穿城而过。扬州也有西湖,前面加了一个“瘦”字。瘦西湖不但苗条,而且蜿蜒袅娜,气质娴静,画舫轻荡,玉桥横卧,与杭州西湖相较,当是各擅胜场,别有一番风味。
　　说扬州,无法不说二十四桥。“青山隐隐水迢迢,秋尽江南草未凋。二十四桥明月夜,玉人何处教吹箫?”二十四桥的芳名,之所以流传千载,得益于杜牧的这首名诗。二十四桥之名,隋代有一个说法,相传隋杨帝在月夜曾借宫女24人吹萧于此,故名;唐代也有一个说法。相传唐代有人在一个月光如水、清风徐徐的夜晚,见到24个风姿绰约的仙女,身披羽纱,酥手托箫,轻启红唇,飘上一座小石桥,舒缓柔美的旋律便从24支箫管中缓缓地流淌出来。此后,小石桥便被称为“二十四桥”。如今,二十四桥景区在瘦西湖公园内,由玲拢花界、熙春台、二十四桥、望春楼四组景点构成。
　　扬州还有美食。“扬州炒饭”风靡中国大江南北。淮扬菜系是中国烹饪行业的一支重要流派,不仅代表了扬州的烹饪技艺,也代表了中国东南部、淮河以南这一广大区域的烹饪技艺,故有“东南佳味”之称。为国内外专家、群众所公认,与京、川、粤菜齐名,是中国主要菜系之一。
　　扬州没有高大的建筑,却有很多的古朴小巷和古代富贾高官的深宅大院。占地6000多平方米的卢氏旧宅,6进青砖黛瓦的楼房和有150年历史却依然枝叶茂盛的紫藤,述说着这座具有“盐商第一楼”美誉的建筑的沧桑经历。
　　这就是扬州。它没有西安、北京等大城市的霸气,也没有上海的喧嚣,它有的是平民般的亲切和婉转曲折、层层叠叠的优雅和文化气息。但是随手翻阅史书,随便翻到哪个朝代,都会发现扬州是个焦点。要么歌舞升平,商贾云集;要么经受血与火的洗礼。
　　它像烟花一样,或绚烂,或毁灭,但始终具备挑动人心的魅力。
　　
　　Presumably, every Chinese knows Yangzhou (a city of Jiangsu Province).
　　Every Chinese who attended school had studied the article―Moonlight over the Lotus Pond―written by Zhu Ziqing, a famous Chinese prose master (1898-1948). The perfectly described “moonlight” in Qinghua Park in Beijing can also be found with the same view in Yangzhou. And Zhu Ziqing grew up bathed in Yangzhou’s watery moonlight.
　　Every Chinese who attended school must have learnt the famous poem―“Thou went southward to Yangzhou in the beautiful spring of lunar March”―which was written by Li Bai, a great Chinese poet (701-762A.D.). This famous poem was written to express Li Bai’s passion for the beautiful spring scene of Yangzhou when he saw off his friend Meng Haoran (another famous poet in 689-740 A.D.) at the Yellow Crane Tower of Wuchang(a city of Hubei Province).
　　With a history of more than 2500 years, this ancient city has an extremely deep cultural foundation. In the Tang and Song Dynasties, almost every famous poet had been in Yangzhou at some time. It was Yangzhou that was the hometown of Zhang Ruoxu (a famous poet in about 660-720 A.D.) whose masterpiece―A Moonlit River on Night in Spring―was praised as “one piece surpasses all the poems of the whole Tang Dynasty”. And Du Mu (a famous poet in about 803-852A.D.) who had written a famous poem “Did you play the flute with beauties in the romantic moonlight at the Twenty-fourth Bridge?” had been in Yangzhou for three years. Su Shi (1037-1101A.D.), a ci poet who had created an unprecedented ode to the moonlight―Prelude To Water Melody・When Again Will the Bright Moon Appear―once held a post of “magistrate” in Yangzhou. And other literary celebrities including Bai Juyi (a famous poet in 772-846A.D.), Ou Yangxiu (a famous litterateur in 1007-1073 A.D.) and Qin Guan (a ci poet in1049-1100A.D.), all lived in Yangzhou at some time.

　　In addition, the Yangzhou School of Painting and Yangzhou School of Philosophy represented by the Eight Eccentric Painters of Yangzhou are indeed eccentric in China’s cultural field. Other Yangzhou specialties such as Yangzhou Opera, Yangzhou story-telling, jade-carving lacquer-ware, Yangzhou miniature landscapes, block printing, and Huaiyang cuisine, etc., have many distinguishing features and a long-standing reputation.
　　There was a poem in the Northern and Southern Dynasties (420-589) called “One wishes to fly to Yangzhou on a crane, carrying much wealth for leisure” which was quoted by later generations to describe Yangzhou’s prosperity. When writing about Yangzhou in his Notes of a Mountain Household, Yu Qiuyu (a famous contemporary writer born in 1962), had cited this poem to describe Yangzhou as well. Yangzhou in the Northern and Southern Dynasties was equivalent to a modern Chinese “province”, with Jiankang (today’s Nanjing) as its capital city.
　　 Yangzhou didn’t essentially rise until the Grand Canal was built in the reign of Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty (581-618A.D.) when Yangzhou became a hub for water transportation between north and south. According to legend, there grew an unparalleled beautiful flower called the Wild Chinese Viburnum in the Viburnum Garden of Yangzhou. It was praised as “a flower unparalleled all over the world”. The Emperor Yang of Sui Dynasty came to Yangzhou three times just in order to enjoy this unique flower.
　　

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